Oct 29, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
Paris…Never one to shy away from a bit of gender-bending games, Jean Paul Gaultier’s S/S 10 collection was dramatically less controversial than seasons past. While there was still some minor elements of androgyny in the form of denim bustiers, sequined tops under suits and a few skirts, the show was relatively subtle for once. With a strong Pop art influence of graphic black and white opening the show, it soon became clear that hot orange would be the major character in this show. Contrast piping was all over the collection on lapels of pea coats, suit jackets, along the hem of pants and outlining trench coats. The strong roping on the shoulders of some jackets evoked images of Hollywood’s original divas like Joan Crawford–it wouldn’t be surprising if the models had difficulty fitting through the door to the runway. While it’s refreshing to see Gaultier pull back the reins of his over-the-top excess, we kind of missed his irreverent attitude and strong sense of humor that usually shines throughout his collections.
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