Philosophy by Natalie Ratabesi
By Jo Lynch

PILGRIM’S PROGRESS New York: One of the trappings of technology is that it often comes off looking a bit cold – perhaps, a little …

Feb 13, 2013
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PILGRIM’S PROGRESS
New York: One of the trappings of technology is that it often comes off looking a bit cold – perhaps, a little too precise and slick. In the latest from Alberta Ferretti’s diffusion line, new designer Natalie Ratabesi managed to restore a more human element to all the innovation. To go back to the roots of rusticism, the modest silhouettes had an almost Puritan quality to them: Skirts fell properly over the knee, and sleeves billowed long and full in the bishop tradition; wooly Alpine sweaters and knee socks only added to the wholesome sensibility. But, behold, progress and rebellion! It came in the form of complex knits engineered with sporty intarsia color blocks and drop needle stitches that revealed bits of skin. The interplay of tradition and tech-driven resulted in some of the strongest outerwear of the season. Standouts include zippered moto jackets renewed with chunky knits and rugged linings and cozy balmacaans finished off with Pilgrim-style collars– yet another nod to the charms of the Old World.Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Relaxed / A-line

Color: Olive / Crimson / Sapphire / Navy / Lily white

Key Items: Half-circle skirt / Alpine sweater / Matched sets / Camp shirt / Scuba peplum top / Knit moto jacket / “Pilgrim” balmacaan / Bishop-sleeved blouse / Fit ‘n’ flare dress / Cardi-vest / Slit pencil skirt / Cigarette pants / High-waisted pleat-front trousers

Materials: Matelassé / Boiled wool / Angora / Mesh / Chiffon / Chantilly lace / Matte taffetta / Fur / Crepe de chine / Drop-needle tricots

Print + Pattern: Mirrored wallpaper ornaments / Exploded plaids / Illustrated oil slicks

Details + Trim: Bead and chain embroidery / Chiffon insets

Accessories + Footwear: Pointy-toed pumps / Knee-high socks

View in RUNWAY: QUICKLOOK


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