May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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With their tousled hair, stark palette of white, black and clay, and trappings that were full of utilitarian details, Phi’s models looked like post-apocalyptic explorers stomping through the Lower East Side. For his spring collection, Andreas Melbostad aimed to achieve a “balanced tension” of “soft and hard, leather against skin.” Ann Demeulemeester-style strap-and-buckle contraptions — as well as trapunto stitching, zippers, grommets and lacing — adorned vests, body-con dresses, fit-and-flare skirts and skinny jeans. His deconstructed bandeaus and girdles also put a fresh spin on lingerie, and are sure to inspire the intimates market. All these details could have been overwhelming, but through skillful juxtaposition of structure and drapery, opacity and luster, curvy and boxy, and with monochrome color used head-to-toe, Melbostad produced a collection full of edgy yet wearable separates sure to please the downtown crowd and garner new fans.
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