PFW S/S18: A considered, polished approach for Clare Waight Keller’s debut at Givenchy

Clare Waight Keller - her S/S18 collection

Clare Waight Keller’s debut at Givenchy

Paris: “Fashion is a tool for self-metamorphosis,” said the note titled “Transformation and Seduction” – a personal touch that Clare Waight Keller placed on everyone’s seat prior to the show – transformation yes, seduction, – quietly. This collection may not have been the sort that gets your pulse racing, but it was akin to the type that slowly gets under your skin. In the hallowed portals of the Palais de Justice – a majestic building in itself and no more a formidable setting for such an occasion, Waight-Keller presented her anticipated debut collection for Givenchy.

From the first outfit it was evident that there were references to the founder’s archives; the silhouettes for a start, the double-breasted jacket, broad at the shoulders, nipped at the waist and belted with the de rigour fanny pack. The tailoring continued, paired with lovely little skirts inset with asymmetrically cut pleats allowing for extra movement. Dresses too were given plenty of fluidity,  with the triangular width accentuated via folds and deep armholes, open to the waist and given a feminine touch of soft ruffles and frills – quite an 80s approach. Leather coats and bomber jackets provided a streetwise aesthetic along with the distressed denim pieces and the ‘nod-to-western’ boots that looked cool, chic and oh so comfortable. Colour too was sensible, understated in black white, red and mint while prints, also taken from the archives, appeared in graphic renditions of a clover motif and an animal pattern. The show ended with a lovely vignette of little black dresses – it was all quite perfect and quietly seductive. – Lizzy Bowring



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