PFW S/S18: A Princess in Paris, How Off-White paid tribute to Princess Diana

Princess Diana inspired collection in Paris

Princess Diana inspired collection from Virgil

Paris: Virgil Abloh bought the princess to Paris for spring, with a homage to Lady Diana 20 years after her death. “It’s the variance between imagining her living now, with me iterating on what she meant,” explained Abloh, whose team spent months dissecting the Princess’ outfits to create a royal wardrobe tinged with both literal and subversive reference.

Take look four; an off-shoulder LBD, split high to the thigh and worn with a sports jersey – then look at Lady Di’s infamous “revenge dress” of ’94, worn on the evening Prince Charles admitted adultery. Or look 32, recalling the ’90’s suit-and-tie getup worn to visit Earl Spencer’s first born, re-worked in Virgil’s tough leather and distressed denim – tie and belt remaining exact.

Elsewhere references were more literal; the strings of pearls, the longline gloves, frothy tulle dresses or painterly polka’s – taken from an 80’s power-blouse. Clutch bags resembled gift boxes, a pair of PVC-heels ironically took on fairytale shoes, while a white-socks and Nike airmax combo honoured both 80’s-Aerobics-Di as much as they did current street garb. Though away from the Royal resurgence, Abloh worked newness into tulle-wrapped tailoring and denim, chic leather separates and “OFF” emblazoned shirting and denim -sure to cause frenzy amongst his legions of loyal followers. Closing the show came fashion royalty herself, Naomi Campbell – a surefire sign of just how much Off-White has grown since its creation just three years ago  – Anna Ross


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