PFW S/S18: Demna’s deshabille ‘real’ world approach at Balenciaga

Balenciaga S/S18 collection at PFW

Balenciaga S/S18

Paris: Demna Gvasalia is an observer, he watches the world around him, from the street, what people wear, social environs et all. His world is Demna “real”, where poignant global messages collide and spew forth within his collections, but none more so than his latest outing for Balenciaga. The collection still held references to Balenciaga but there was that Demna/Vetements approach –  the ladylike pencil skirts cut simply in coloured checks but then accessorized with unique charm belts, slung low on the hip, or the Dad’s striped shirts, tied with sweatshirts around the shoulders – a simple addition that is bound to be interpreted within a fashion moment. And, that was not all – stripes over tartans, oversized sweaters over floaty silk skirts and the overt attachments – outerwear over outerwear that hung off models necks in a trompe l’oeil effect, not to mention, spikes on heels, platform crocs and bum bags. Demna decided to move closer to his Vetements approach. “This is now what I wanted to be about — things that I like and things that I value,” combining elements that resonated with “street and casual – and you know things that everybody kind of associates with my work, more or less. This was the main base of the collection.” Gvasalia also sent out mountain scenes and tropical sunsets as well as newsprints and dollars bill patterns. Is this not an ode to deshabille? – Lizzy Bowring


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