May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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New York: Peter Som introduced a new strict femininity to his runway for F/W 12, a place usually overrun with bright playfulness. The departure into avant-garde construction and grown-up textures suited the designer, who turned out intellectual silhouettes via strong shoulder wrap jackets and played peekaboo with sheer layered pencil skirts. For Som, even edgier than satin peplum dresses and cropped double-breasted jackets were casual ensembles like leather track pants paired with cotton placket blouses, progressive looks often seen from designers like Phoebe Philo. But Som’s new direction struck the right chord more directly when his sense of humor crept in through graphic repeat cat prints or fluffy patchwork furs, statements which complimented fall’s modern tailoring and allowed for a little fun too.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Cocoon / Hourglass / Fitted / Slim
Color: White / Black / Camel / Cream / Rust / Gunmetal / Emerald / Cranberry
Key Items: Round belted jackets / Sheer skirts / Oversize fur coats / Sheer blouses / Cropped jackets / Double-breasted peplum jackets / Matched sets / Bomber jackets / Slim trousers / Leather pencil skirts / Cotton placket front blouses / Slim paneled leggings
Materials: Silk / Cashmere / Satin / Chiffon / Organza / Fur / Tweed / Leather / Cotton / Lace / Bonded wool
Print + Pattern: Graphic cat prints / Abstract florals
Details + Trim: Self belts / Peplums / Removable ruffles / Asymmetry / Sheer panels / Zippers / Folds / Plackets
Accessories + Footwear: Stiletto heels / Ankle strap heels
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