Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: From its sumptuous textiles to food heritage to sheer size, India is a country that engages all the senses – a quality that has catapulted the region into a key source of design inspiration this season. Stimulated by their own trip to Calcutta, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos found a kindred spirit in the kinetic visual landscape of the metropolitan, filtering its vibrant tradition through their own technology-driven lens for spring. Saris were adapted into modern wrap skirts, intricate beadwork and embroidery appeared in eye-catching mirrored patterns and folkloric motifs were mixed into the duo’s special brew of digitized collaging. To work with an inspiration so rich requires some subtlety, and in this case, active-influenced moments in the form of athletic mesh details and body-mapping tees, as well as a stark color palette, kept the collection buoyant amidst a sea of flounces and photorealistic prints.—Nivara Xaykao
Silhouette: Body-con to bell / Built-out hips
Color: Sea blues and greens / Lime green / Black-and-white / Flame orange / Canary yellow
Key Items: Flamenco pencil skirt / Peplum top / Stacked skirt / Intarsia tee / Cropped moto jacket / Printed cigarette pants
Materials: Athletic mesh / Matelassé
Print + Pattern: Baroque-style collage of Florentine frescoes, geos and organic abstracts / Body-mapping color blocks / Painterly serape stripes / Latticework
Details + Trim: Flounces / Plunging necklines / Thigh-high slits / Large-scale eyelet cutouts / Mirrored pailettes / 3-D embroidery / Indian beadwork
Accessories + Footwear: Knotted gladiator heels
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