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Peter Pilotto

KINETIC CALCUTTA
London: From its sumptuous textiles to food heritage to sheer size, India is a country that engages all the senses – a quality that has catapulted the region into a key source of design inspiration this season. Stimulated by their own trip to Calcutta, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos found a kindred spirit in the kinetic visual landscape of the metropolitan, filtering its vibrant tradition through their own technology-driven lens for spring. Saris were adapted into modern wrap skirts, intricate beadwork and embroidery appeared in eye-catching mirrored patterns and folkloric motifs were mixed into the duo’s special brew of digitized collaging. To work with an inspiration so rich requires some subtlety, and in this case, active-influenced moments in the form of athletic mesh details and body-mapping tees, as well as a stark color palette, kept the collection buoyant amidst a sea of flounces and photorealistic prints.—Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Body-con to bell / Built-out hips

Color: Sea blues and greens / Lime green / Black-and-white / Flame orange / Canary yellow

Key Items: Flamenco pencil skirt / Peplum top / Stacked skirt / Intarsia tee / Cropped moto jacket / Printed cigarette pants

Materials: Athletic mesh / Matelassé

Print + Pattern: Baroque-style collage of Florentine frescoes, geos and organic abstracts / Body-mapping color blocks / Painterly serape stripes / Latticework

Details + Trim: Flounces / Plunging necklines / Thigh-high slits / Large-scale eyelet cutouts / Mirrored pailettes / 3-D embroidery / Indian beadwork

Accessories + Footwear: Knotted gladiator heels

View in RUNWAY: QUICKLOOK

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