May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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LADYLIKE + DECONSTRUCTED
London: Peter Pilotto and partner Christopher De Vos are among the many designers who presented looks with a ladylike sensibility this season. Hemlines fell to a prim and proper mid-calf length, necklines were high, and knife pleats made an appearance, but the designers’ avant garde aesthetic made for looks that were anything but mumsy. Inspired by a book on rock climbing, the duo experimented with new silk screening techniques, which created a textural effect that looked like a washed-out image of a mountain face. Pebbled lace was included for pieces and panels, adding even more texture, and silks were partially wrapped and gathered at the chest, giving the looks an artful, collaged, yet slightly deconstructed feel. Knits were a new development for the label and a positive addition to the collection; their neon ribbing and body mapping connected to this season’s emerging trends. Structured pieces like a boxy tweed motorcycle vest worked well, but the airy looks were the show’s highlight, showcasing Pilotto’s finesse and compelling vision.
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