Peter Pilotto
By Anna Glassman

EL GAUCHO ABSTRACTION London: Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos’s sculpted designs took a softer approach last Spring with a collection inspired by a …

Feb 18, 2013
/

Like


EL GAUCHO ABSTRACTION
London: Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos’s sculpted designs took a softer approach last Spring with a collection inspired by a trip to Calcutta, but for F/W 13 they looked closer to home. The artistry of Spain was on tap, from boxy, modern versions of the bolero jacket in felted wool with abstracted El Gaucho embroideries or crafted from ponyhair with raw, oversized stitching. Knits came textured and patchworked with fur into the arthropod silhouettes typical of the brand—most notably as matched set wrap pencil skirts and shell tops featuring winged cap sleeves and colorblocked waist definition. At the close of the presentation, wide and stately cape shapes arrived as the true update of the season, their rigid matador confidence a new tactic at Peter Pilotto and an interesting mannish counterpart to mirror print hourglass dresses.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Boxy / Nipped waist / Elongated / Fit-and-flare / Wide & rectangular / Hourglass

Color: Saturated orange red / White / Black / Cobalt / Canary yellow / Sage / Dove grey / Silver / Charcoal / Pale ice blue

Key Items: Molded shell tops with winged sleeves / Wrap pencil skirts / Boxy crop bolero jackets / Rectangular overcoats / Pleated menswear trousers / Raglan sleeve knit tops / Puffer jackets & coats / Cape coats / Nipped waist cocktail dresses with wavy sequins

Materials: Wool / Leather / Intarsia knits / Felted wool / Shaved fur / Waffle knits / Tweed / Lamé / Ponyhair / Silk

Print + Pattern: Hand painted prints / Stripes / Colorblocking / Houndstooth / Abstract swirls / Lattice work / Mirrored motifs / Tweed

Details + Trim: Contrast trim / Cap sleeves / Turtlenecks / Slits / Embroidery / Oversized exposed stitching / Fur collars / Quilting / Handkerchief hems / Cutouts / Sequins

Accessories + Footwear: Shiny patent leather oxfords / Mirrored heels by Nicholas Kirkwood

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK


Subscribe to WGSN

blog_ad4
Request a demo to experience WGSN.

Related stories

10 photos
Michael Kors Transeason 2017: The rise of the Boomerang dress

4 photos
London's new immersive art exhibition invites you to step back in time

1 photo
Peter Dundas Departs Roberto Cavalli

4 photos
London's Design Museum has a new home - and it's brilliantly ambitious

5 photos
The Beauty-Full Week: Top five looks from Milan and Paris Fashion Week SS17