May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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EL GAUCHO ABSTRACTION
London: Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos’s sculpted designs took a softer approach last Spring with a collection inspired by a trip to Calcutta, but for F/W 13 they looked closer to home. The artistry of Spain was on tap, from boxy, modern versions of the bolero jacket in felted wool with abstracted El Gaucho embroideries or crafted from ponyhair with raw, oversized stitching. Knits came textured and patchworked with fur into the arthropod silhouettes typical of the brand—most notably as matched set wrap pencil skirts and shell tops featuring winged cap sleeves and colorblocked waist definition. At the close of the presentation, wide and stately cape shapes arrived as the true update of the season, their rigid matador confidence a new tactic at Peter Pilotto and an interesting mannish counterpart to mirror print hourglass dresses.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Boxy / Nipped waist / Elongated / Fit-and-flare / Wide & rectangular / Hourglass
Color: Saturated orange red / White / Black / Cobalt / Canary yellow / Sage / Dove grey / Silver / Charcoal / Pale ice blue
Key Items: Molded shell tops with winged sleeves / Wrap pencil skirts / Boxy crop bolero jackets / Rectangular overcoats / Pleated menswear trousers / Raglan sleeve knit tops / Puffer jackets & coats / Cape coats / Nipped waist cocktail dresses with wavy sequins
Materials: Wool / Leather / Intarsia knits / Felted wool / Shaved fur / Waffle knits / Tweed / Lamé / Ponyhair / Silk
Print + Pattern: Hand painted prints / Stripes / Colorblocking / Houndstooth / Abstract swirls / Lattice work / Mirrored motifs / Tweed
Details + Trim: Contrast trim / Cap sleeves / Turtlenecks / Slits / Embroidery / Oversized exposed stitching / Fur collars / Quilting / Handkerchief hems / Cutouts / Sequins
Accessories + Footwear: Shiny patent leather oxfords / Mirrored heels by Nicholas Kirkwood
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