3 hours ago | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: After showing at São Paulo Fashion Week for the past five years, 19-year-old wunderkind Pedro Lourenço had a much bigger stage in mind for fall — not only presenting in Paris but in the very same room where Yves Saint Laurent showed his couture collections. Surrounded by plenty of buzz and with leading tastemakers, such as Carine Roitfeld, seated in the front row, the young designer did not disappoint with his mature, leather-centric collection. The series of well-studied urban warrior getups was inspired by both the primitive nature of Diana the Huntress and the modernism of Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. The architectural references were literally transferred to the body in the form of stacked leather strips suspended by strands of beads and fin-like protrusions that gave the illusion of pleats on skirts. Underneath the conceptual exercise (and armor-like structures), Lourenço hit on many key trends — leather-everything, A-line skirts, color-blocking, camel and bit of minimalism in his clean, undecorated tops. Although the collection was marked by a showy, “avant-garde” sensibility that characterizes many young designers, Lourenço possesses a strong, well-developed aesthetic and friends (and successful designer parents Glória Coelho and Reinaldo Lourenço) in just the right places to take him far.
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