May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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London: Paul Smith designs for a woman who knows how to live in a man’s world, borrowing just enough from his closet to command authority while still letting her femininity shine through. For F/W 12 this meant classic relaxed suiting with many pairs of easy-fit checked trousers, their masculinity softened by wrap jackets, velvet and ombré. When Smith did explore dresses and skirts, he stuck with wrapped construction, creating kimono tunics with self-belts or silk trenches tied at the waist. A contingent of casual looks was pleasing as well, mostly due to ideas like slim ombré trousers, marled popcorn knit tops and cowl-neck checked sweaters. Ease and wearability were the watchwords throughout the presentation, with slim turtlenecks replacing stiff button-ups and cementing Smith’s female appeal.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Relaxed / Draped / Wrapped
Color: Plum / Chocolate / Black / Cranberry / Teal / White / Lemon / Rust / Tangerine / Chartreuse / Cobalt
Key Items: Tapered silk trousers / Classic cashmere overcoats / Slim turtlenecks / Patterned blazers / Boxy peacoats / Velvet pants / Silk button-ups / Wrapped coat dresses / Ombré trousers / Crewneck sweaters / Wrapped jackets
Materials: Silk / Cashmere / Velvet / Jersey / Cotton / Popcorn knits / Wool / Netting
Print + Pattern: Geometric repeats / Scarf prints / Checks / Ombré
Details + Trim: Contrast lapels / Draping / Self belts / Floral appliqué / Contrast piping / Zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Weekend bags / Loafers / Spectacles / Ankle boots / Oversized round sunglasses / Patterned silk scarves / Long chain necklaces / Pocket squares / Mary-janes / Delicate drop earrings / Layered pearls / Hard clutches / Metal cuffs / Long gloves
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