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Paul Smith

DARK WATERS
Paris: For F/W 12, Paul Smith modernized prototypical nautical looks by slimming down silhouettes, adding active-inspired details and incorporating sleek shiny fabrics. Many of the show’s standout looks featured interesting sweaters; bright under layers popped from beneath loose cable knits, and honeycomb sweaters with contrasting yarns created similar effects. Suits were given youthful updates, with jellyfish and sharktooth motifs printed on tailored trousers, and polished jacket silhouettes cut from sporty nylon. A predominantly dark color palette and a backdrop depicting turbulent waves gave the show an overall moody feel. –Whitney Kessler

Silhouette: Slim and tailored / Slightly shrunken

Color: Eggplant / Midnight blue / Black / Navy / Neon yellow, orange and green / Dark grey / Cobalt

Key Items: Pea coat / Pullovers – woven and knit / Slim ankle pant / Pieced jacket / Single button blazer / Polished puffer

Materials: Melton wool / Hairy sweater knits / Leather / Satin / Nylon / Wool suitings / Fur

Print + Pattern: Abstract watery motif / Jellyfish and shark tooth prints / Pinstripes / Knit nautical designs

Details + Trim: Button-down collars / Pieced constructions / Pant pleats and frontal seams / Asymmetrical zipper closures / Shawl collars / Knit linings / Funnel and mock turtle necks / Buckled straps / Drawstrings

Accessories + Footwear: Simple duffel and messenger bags / Tuxedo oxfords / Basic brogues and sporty brogue-boots / Chelsea boots / Flat top sunglasses

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