Paul Smith



London: A master of menswear, Paul Smith smartly opted to embrace the moment’s tomboy trend, showcasing his strengths with an androgynous women’s collection. With pompadour up-dos, button-front collared shirts, and dotted ascots, the look referenced the style of 1950s teddy boys. Tailored suits and separates, along with laceless oxford shoes and handheld portfolios, drove the menswear message home. This season’s “scant” (a skirt-pant hybrid) came in the form of ultra-wide leg pleated trousers. Meanwhile, slim, cropped skinnies offered the dandy’s take on the tailored pant. Rockabilly shirt styling – rolled-up sleeves and completely buttoned plackets – felt perfectly appropriate and trend-right. Although the collection’s dominant theme was masculine, a charming assortment of ladylike elements were mixed in for good measure; structured slim-fit sheath dresses emphasized the hourglass shape, while a pretty pink cabbage rose print conjured the English countryside. Although Smith was working within his tailored comfort zone, items that featured collage-style piecing proved that he wasn’t afraid to experiment.

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