May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: Sir Paul Smith, the go-to guy for traditional British garb, surprised his followers with an ebullient fall collection, filled with punchy tones and eye-catching prints. It was apparent from the first look – a fuchsia silk shell paired with brick red trousers and a royal purple coat – that this wouldn’t be a typical Paul Smith show. The designer went on to include other brights, such as aqua and Yves Klein blue, in addition to metallic silver lamé. Fractured geometric shapes appeared for papery silk tops and dresses, adding graphic interest. Smith even presented prints that depicted ornate interiors, seemingly a nod to another London designer, Mary Katrantzou, who has frequently used similar motifs in her work. But behind all the new, upbeat colors and prints was Smith’s impeccable tailoring, adding a sophisticated undertone. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Oversized / Slouchy / Hourglass / Long and lean
Color: Fuchsia / Royal purple / Brick red / Yves Klein blue / Aqua / Navy / Black / Dusty blue / Rust / Ivory / Silver
Key Items: Slouchy tailored pants / Oversized coats / Printed dresses / Gathered silk shirts
Materials: Felted wool / Matte suitings / Lustrous silks / Fine-gauge yarns / Menswear tweeds / Suede / Organza / Lamé / Blanket wool
Print + Pattern: Ornate interiors / Fractured geometrics
Details + Trim: Gathering / Ruching / Funnel necks / Zippers / Contrast lining / Veiling
Accessories + Footwear: Silk scarves / Envelope clutches / Color blocked duffels / Skinny belts / Suede ankle boots / Pointy-toe pumps / Flat loafers
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