Patrik Ervell

New York: Patrik Ervell’s chosen aesthetic can often be described as austere and utilitarian, a kind of cleaned up refinement for the modern man. For S/S 12, the New York designer  experimented with pops of color more than he ever has, taking the opportunity to send out his version of a Hawaiian shirt — a watercolor, hand-painted silk version that perfectly complemented the glossy surfaces of waxed outerwear and cotton sateen military pants. It was almost as if a soldier on a military base on Honolulu took flight to Tokyo for the weekend and returned with a new techno-savvy style. “The powers of commerce and finance mixing with the grit and toughness of the street,” was written in Ervell’s show notes, leading many in the audience to expect a much more rigid assortment than what actually came down the runway. Perhaps that surprise says it all — that the leading menswear designers of today are finding a curious balance between uniformity and innovation.  —Michael Fisher

Silhouette: Straight and narrow

Color: Ink blue / Brown / Red / Orange / Green / Khaki / White / Grey / Black

Key Items: Bomber jackets / Baseball jackets / Short-sleeve sweatshirt / Silk Hawaiian shirts / Slim tailored pants / Two-button suit / Field jacket / Double-breasted suit

Materials: Waxed cotton / Leather / Cotton poplin and sateen / Jersey / Silk / Worsted wool

Details + Trim: Hand painted techniques on jackets and shirts / Elastic cuffs for pants / Small point collars / Contrast seams and piping

Accessories + Footwear: Repp stripe ties / Duffel bags / Baseball caps / Open totes / Webbed belt with slide buckle / Lace-up Oxfords

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