Patrik Ervell

New York: Over the last six months, with a plethora of protests taking place across the globe, the concepts of authority and rebellion have carried over into other parts of culture, including fashion. In a time full of somber color palettes, sharp silhouettes and utilitarian details, it was only a matter of time before a menswear designer cited the uniforms for “the boys in blue” as an influence. Patrik Ervell’s show notes for F/W 12 simply states “A police aesthetic” as the point of reference, and what came down the runway was everything that phrase might imply: uniformity, blue and badass. The soft-shouldered suits and club collar shirts that have become a staple of his collection were still present, but somehow transitioned into a tougher complement to tonal baseball jackets in wool flannel, quilted trousers and pieced SWAT sweaters.  Even subtle accents of metallic gold recalled some of the pomp and circumstance of many uniforms. The striking notion of “disarming authority” (as Ervell explained in his notes) resulted in a sophisticated showing of power, refinement and masculinity.   —Michael Fisher

Silhouette: Classic uniformity

Color: Navy / Black / Grey / Royal blue / Red

Key Items: Double-breasted suits / Bomber and baseball jackets / Pieced crewneck sweaters / Pea coat / Quilted trousers / Club collar shirts / Tailored parka

Materials: Wool flannel / PVC / Leather / Silk / Nylon

Details + Trim: Flat-quilted surfaces / Metallic trim on knits and wovens / Hand-painted silk / Pieced construction / Pleats / Fur trim on coats / Self-belts / Exposed zippers / Patch pockets / Drawstrings

Accessories + Footwear: Helmet bags / Luxe backpacks / Rubber-soled shoes, some with contrast colors


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