Past Meets Future

Milan…Gianfranco Ferré

There’s been a lot of buzz around Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi’s taking over the Gianfranco Ferré brand. For their first outing, the duo seemed a bit too self-conscious in their efforts to take the brand “into the future,”. There were too many concepts without establishing a central voice. On the plus side, with architecture and innovative fabrics always major themes, the designers did, indeed, honor those traditions and presented us with interesting themes in both regards. Resolutely broad shoulders and an extreme roping effect created a strong silhouette, and fabrics blended the classic and the futuristic. Although the show notes referenced ’60s shading into the ’70s, the clothes evoked a sort of Weimar Republic sci-fi film, and the palette was an expressionist black, white, and silver. Lazer-cut leather jackets with exaggerated necks were the stand-out pieces. The show’s other major look featured knits with gigantic mufflers swathing models’ heads. Perhaps next season, they will be able to find their individual voice while still keeping the brand’s heritage in mind.


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