Jan 17, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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The final shows in Paris (Oct 2nd) marked the closure to the Spring/Summer 2014 Fashion Week schedule. The city boasted a denim-packed schedule with jeanswear themes appearing on almost every major catwalk from Chanel to Vuitton that showed the relevance and versatility of the fabric. Here, Stylesight rounds up the key denim looks to emerge from the runways.
Junya Watanabe took his collection in a surprising ethnic direction for S/S 14, staging his models as folklore figures in tons of fake-suede fringing and rasta rat’s-nest hairdos. The theme struck a balance between Native America, Burning Man hippies and Wild West culture. Denim, which Watanabe masters perfectly each season, came through in a plethora of textures and tones with Navajo jacquards, slashed denims, patch working and cascading cuts, all providing surface interest. Silhouettes were oversized with slouchy pants, wavy skirts and deconstructed jean skirts with asymmetric closures.
For S/S 14, Jonny Johansson and his Acne Studios team pulled the RTW collection back to the brand’s roots. Denim and workwear-inspired styles were key drivers for the season, with Johansson putting his typical paired back Swedish spin on on things with sharp cuts and slick tones. A strong maritime theme was felt throughout the collection with lots of naval styles like cagoules and peacoats appearing in seafaring tones. Rich and polished indigo shades provided the perfect palette for tonal denim pieces, while stark clinical whites were highlighted with laser-cut slashes.
Marc Jacobs’ final show with Louis Vuitton was appropriately mostly black: shades of darkened indigo sat with faded denim, glossy leather and rich feather all in the classic mourning shade. But denim took on a “showgirl” attitude with couture-like opulence. Jet beading and oversized studs, layers of lace and tulle and dramatic fringing took the classic 5-pocket jean to designer level. Standout items included the modern Boro look re-imagined in tonal black patchwork, a key trend on the S/S 14 runways.
Yang Li experimented with premium utility for his beautiful S/S 14 show. Denim was glossy, flowing and almost couture-ready, with frayed and raw edges giving items a slightly more casual elegance. Li played with proportion as well as fabric and styling, creating up-sized two-piece ensembles that almost resembled deadstock Carhartt from the `90s. A beautiful creamy ecru overall cemented this as feme-utility with a modern edge.
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