Jan 17, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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The final show’s in Paris on Wednesday 6th March marked the closure to the Fall/Winter 2013 Fashion Week schedule. While this season did not bring as much indigo as usual in the French capital, there were still a number of high profile designers who used innovative techniques to create a range of unexpected and conceptual uses of denim. Here Stylesight rounds up these key designers:
Technology and innovation have always been key elements in Hussein Chalayan’s collections, so it was a surprise when he opened his fall show with a series of looks made from humble denim. Raw selvedge fabrics provided a rigid foundation to his structural silhouettes that appeared as full skater skirts and stacked boyfriend jeans, but the most notable were the wide-leg pants with exaggerated cuffs that reached almost to the knee. Chalayan appropriated the style from the hip-hop kids, but made it his own with clean lines and outsize proportions. The designer’s tech-y tendencies returned with a digital print that resembled an oil slick which injected a potent dose of color to the otherwise monochrome palette.
Junya Watanabe’s patchworking technique has become a staple component of his collection that satisfies a specific anticipation each season. For F/W 13 his interpretation was youthful with a touch of deluxe punk, centered on denim silhouettes with contrast panels ‘haphazardly’ applied with Watanabe’s artfully precise eye. Nubbly tweeds, bright plaid fabrics, polka dots and other punky material were worked onto faded boyfriend jeans or crafted into DIY-style fishtail hem skirts. Americana seen through a Japanese lens, Fall was inherently and wearably fun.
The F/W 13 Paul & Joe collection took a breezy bohemian direction, with Dunaway style pants, unstructured oversize blazers, cozy cardigans and printed silk blouses. Designer Sophie Albou confidently displayed her grasp on masculine-feminine dressing, taking inspiration from the iconic looks of Mick and Marianne: Her over-the-knee suede boots and ingenue dresses with high necks and short hemlines, his patchwork pelts, velvet slacks and brocade blazers. While the collection was not denim heavy, Albou’s silhouettes echoed those classic denim looks from the 70s with ultra-wide pants and oversized field jackets reworked in luscious wools and cosmetic shades. Youthful, effortless and cool, it ticked all of the Paul & Joe girl’s boxes.
Keep your eyes peeled for Stylesight’s full round-up of the women’s denim collections live on the denim page next week.
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