Sep 24, 2018 | By Lourdes Linares
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Last week Christian Lacroix showed its debut menswear collection for S/S12, with new creative director Sacha Walckhoff at the helm, at the location of its brand new store still under construction in Paris. The collection featured a handful of denim highlights including the laundered and customized trucker vest and cut-off short. Walckhoff combined a rock n roll attitude and patched and scrawled customization with an opulent and fine gold embroidery that was the star of the show.
Julius is a Japanese fashion label designed by Tatsuro Horikawa. Gothic themes run deep within the brand and a muted, predominantly black collection tapped into a general feeling of a dark, apocalyptic future. Exaggerated cargo pant styling combined with laundered leather and bondage looks with a strong focus on destroyed and marbled surfaces and leather-look treatments.
Viktor and Rolf presented a relaxed, 70s-influenced collection featuring a clean and summery color palette with a strong summer-leisure flavor. Denim highlights included bright gradient indigo stripes and color-blocked paneling on classic truckers and flared 70’s trouser styles, while a reccurring dolphin motif added an extra dash of humor and fun.
The second menswear collection for Mugler by creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Romain Kremer showed a noticeable change in style for this established design house. The collection took inspiration from the 90’s club-kid scene and ergonomic paneled long sleeved stretchtops, cyberdog style jewelry and plenty of acid-washed denim cemented the look. High-summer short-lengths hit mid to upper thigh and classic trucker jackets were updated with 90’s paneling and pocket details.
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