Sep 13, 2019 | By WGSN Insider
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Jan 26, 2018
Following a Paris and Milan Menswear debrief (with a bit of Pitti Uomo thrown in), the WGSN editors weigh in on the menswear season, picking out their highlights across the fashion weeks.
“Luke Meier’s OAMC collection, an ultramodern minimal take on military clothing inspired by two artists: Ellsworth Kelly (whose ghost army had previously served Christopher Raeburn’s collection well), and, maybe more unusually, Josef Beuys”.
“Together they informed precisely cut felt suits and jackets, mysterious photo prints between landscape and camouflage, which were transferred onto lightweight shell tops or quilted gilets, and layered with lightweight translucent coats”.
“The resulting collection, like its colour palette, was beautifully calm and sophisticated, a combination of interesting, well-made clothing and art, which in our time of so much hype-driven fashion feels like the perfect antidote”.
“The master of sensuality and seduction, Haider Ackerman pivoted ever so slightly this season, incorporating many tropes and details from more overtly masculine inspirations to create what I believe to be his best collection to date”.
“For those who have been paying attention to his Instagram, Haider recently developed somewhat of a bromance with fellow designer Umit Benan, traveling the world together (smoking cigars and drinking whiskey from Marrakech to Cuba), and his influence is palpable. One can only suspect Umit’s involvement, but his fingerprints are all over this collection: heavier textiles, earthier details, globalist artisanal themes and more workwear references, for example. The sexiness is still there- the silks, velvets, florals and skinny leather trousers which made him a veritable star among the glam rock set anchor the collection in ‘classic Haider’ territory. However, it’s this new red blooded undercurrent that made this collection so special to see”.
“Pitti Uomo in Florence has become some what of a favorite for fashion industry insiders, thanks not just because of all the peacocking, but the impressive list of guest designers they have invited to show the past few years”.
“While the Undercover and Soloist collaboration show was the headline affair, it was Dorian Stefano Tarantini’s denim loaded Malibu 1992 show that caught my eye. Tarantini’s debut collection took inspiration from the Paninari, the famous Milan-born street tribe from the ’80s—known for its love of primary color puffa coats, American denim, exposed argyle socks with deck shoes and burgers, of course. Tarantini’s almost comic parody versions came with even more sartorial vigour with unconventional looks like extreme oversizing, and denim in graphic acid-wash finishes and acidic overdyes that teetered on good/bad taste of a 1980s fancy dress party; which made it all the more spectacular”.
“The show also featured A/W 18’s on-trend cowboy theme, which came through subverted takes on rodeo style with Mugler-esque expressions of big-shoulder denim suits styled with bolo ties and big buckle belts. All this nostalgia had me immediately googling 80s inspiration and trawling eBay for some thrifted cowboy belts”!
“It’s quite hard to pick a favourite from Paris, not least because of the diverse collections shown by hugely talented designers and my own Geminian preference for different wardrobes on different days! But Lanvin’s show was quite something. Honing the theme of outdoors-inspired outerwear and classic checks tailored to perfection- even the casual pieces had a nonchalant coolness that belied their hyper-considered design and development process”.
“Lucas Ossendrijver’s play on proportion tied in with garments skewed across the body to create interesting shapes; knits were semi-deconstructed, with sleeves wrapped like scarves, while thinner outerwear pieces were unzipped and revealed sumptuous layers underneath. With practical pockets prominently placed on coats and American blanket striped lining fabrics reinterpreted for outerwear, the collection was highlighted with flashed of colour from zippers, knitted tipping details, fine roll necks and bold shoelaces. In short, I know I would fall in love with it in the flesh, which is the real test for me and my fickle starsign”.
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