May 17, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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As Paris brings Men’s Fashion Week to a close, Stylesight’s denim team highlights the key denim looks to emerge from the list of high-profile designers showing in the French capital. Known for more understated and sartorial takes on denim compared to its European counterparts, Paris’s portfolio of designers deliver a selection of technically tailored looks with a surprisingly grown-up identity.
Italian fashion house, Valentino delivers yet another denim heavy collection for S/S 14 offering a fusion of military references and tailoring. Designers Maria Grazia Chirui and Pierpaolo Piccioli once again showed their knack for handling denim offering up the fabric in premium and polished silhouettes. Picking up from the clean sartorial looks of F/W 13, the latest collection features a range of sharply cut two-piece suits that came in both rich and raw indigo palettes as well as more modern two-tone fabric blocked variations. A most notable move-on for the season were camouflage prints that disguised trousers, blouson jackets, suits and popover t-shirts that will no doubt be the uniform for the modern man next summer.
Korean label Wooyoungmi breathe new life into the perennial colorblock trend for S/S 14 using a winning combination of minimalist silhouettes, clean linear patterns and an energising palette that gave the technique new direction. Using denim on the catwalk for the first time, the collection focused on a simple yet effective fabric piecing technique. Rich and raw indigos were pieced against stark whites, azure and moss, while ’70s greencast shades gave the sporty silhouettes like blousons and boiler suits a retro feel. Sharp tailoring and clean cuts lent a luxe-sportswear edge to minimalist items like denim tees, cleanly cut shirts and trench coats with raw denims maintaining a rigid structure.
Junya Watanabe’s infatuation with the great outdoors for S/S 14 looking to hiking and fishing as the key sources of references for his latest outing. German heritage brand Seil Marschall, a specialist in fine clothing and equipment for the great outdoors (since 1896) was noted as Watanabe’s direct inspiration for the collection. A more urbane man emerged this season with refined silhouettes and cleaner palettes evolving previous labourer themes. One of the most predominant elements of the collection was the inside out patchwork aspect that emerged through exposed pockets, fabric panels and floral patchwork linings that gave the collection a charming summer camping theme. Crisp chambrays, clean cotton flats and plaids provided the perfect template to this theme updating multi pocketed vests and jackets with a modern country charm.
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim moved away from the loud and branded looks that elevated the brand to stardom just a few season’s ago – looking to a more refined “New Wave” collection to update the collection for S/S 14. Taking inspiration from their SoCal roots, the designers injected a California ease with scratchy hand drawn wave-like prints that added a sense of motion to the denim assortments. Taking a predominantly Cali surf ‘n’ skate style, models came through in wide and slouchy pants, baggy board shorts and pieced sports jackets. A selection of oversized outerwear options like macs thrown on over sporty separates hit the laid back attitude of the West Coast beach right on the head.
French designer Guillaume Henry looked to the spontaneous and elegant looks of famed French painters from Giacometti to Morandi to inspire the latest season for Carven. Amongst the plethora of of sherbet brights and window pane checks were a selection of saturated indigos and pale chambray shades that provided a grounded palette to the clean and minimalist silhouettes on offer. These polished denims injected a modern and urbane aesthetic into tried and tested menswear classics like bomber jackets, denim trousers and polo shirts. Henry’s sharp cuts and technically tailoring further polished the collection.
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