Jan 10, 2017 | By Lourdes Linares
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Men’s Fashion Week shows continue apace and the latest Parisian runways were full of denim inspiration. Here’s our pick of the best:
Many of this season’s runway shows were inspired by the Wild West, but the 3.1 show proved that this sometimes-camp theme can be executed in a contemporary and tasteful manner. More obvious signature pieces, such as the intarsia horse sweater, were tempered with Lim’s expert use of denim separates: ergonomic, jodhpur-style skinnies, button-down Western shirts and some decorative, rodeo-style quilted denims and jacquards to create just the right amount of opulence. A cape-parka hybrid jacket created a stand-out collection piece.
Kris Van Assche’s collection for Dior Homme juxtaposed a beautifully tailored and sartorial range with the designer’s affinity to denim and casualwear. The Savile Row pinstripe suit was expertly teamed with a robust, outdoors hunting vest or hidden under an upsized winter parker. Dashes of laundered mid-blue indigo and clean military green gave suiting a dressed-down edge and a new lease of life for F/W 14.
A Stylesight favorite this season, the Dries Van Noten show expertly mixed expedition-ready technicality with a muted, yet shocking color palette of hippie tie-dyes…and to great effect. Ergonomic parachute pants and activewear jackets utilized pieced denims and over-dyed cottons with nylons and psychedelic tie-dye panels. The overall effect was a celebration of color, texture and silhouette that stood out as one of the freshest runways in Paris.
Another label to explore a psychedelic and colorful theme for the season, Issey Miyake experimented with colored crackle effects, fractal-inspired prints and coated metallics that conjured a feeling of ’90s rave culture mixed with urban utility. Texture was also key, with his signature pleated fabrics and perfectly crumpled 3D effects updating tailored jackets and pant fits.
Another season, another Junya Watanabe patched jean! The master of the relaxed pant shape and the perfectly repaired five-pocket jean continued to do what he does best with a Pitti-Uomo-ready, sartorial runway. The usual, quirky mix of blanket stripes, plaids and juxtaposing remnant fabrics decorate curved-inseam, carrot-fit jeans with the exception of a couple of skinny and cropped-boot pant fits. Jeans were complimented with fabric-blocked outerwear in checks, quilted panels and camo. Many brands are trying to replicate Watanabe’s signature look right now, but nobody can do Watanabe quite like the man himself.
This season Valentino looked once again to the crispness of raw denim to give his man a polished urban appeal. Structure and a formal appeal was provided through softly tailored suits as well as refined takes on utility silhouettes like chore coats and the boiler suit. Jacquard camouflages in tonal indigo tones sat smoothly alongside engineered herringbones as did the nice variant of grey denims blocked against woolen fabrics.
Raf Simons invited American artist and longtime friend Sterling Ruby to collaborate with him on the Fall/Winter 14 collection, something the duo said has been percolating between the pair for some time. The combination resulted in a bold and expressive explosion that perfectly harmonized the strength of each two creative minds – Simons perfectly balanced proportions and Ruby’s tendancy for multi-medium form. There was a real exploration of color throughout the collection with muted brights highlighted with carefully considered bleach splatters. Shirts and jackets came covered in random strips of fabrics on the chest and refined parkas injected with tonal indigo jacquards.
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