Apr 13, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Instead of the baroque-rock mash we’ve come to expect from Balmain, new design director Olivier Rousteing turned to the flamboyance of country western stage costumes from the 60s to inject new life into the collection. Besides channeling the obvious glitz of casinos, Rousteing also referenced less glamorous Vegas surfaces like motel wallpaper patterns worked into cloqué jeans and blazers. Intensely rich gold embroidery snaked its way across pale blue suits and minidress with a Western tone that combined the ornate with the casual. Gold studs embellished pale denim jeans, full floor-length denim skirts and western shirts to set a Western tone.
There are certain things you come to expect from Isabel Marant – a tight jean or two, great jackets that are instantly recognizable, and a killer attitude that makes a lot of people want to be the quintessential Isabel Marant girl. For her S/S 12 collection, Marant was thinking about what a girl traveling around the world for her summer holidays would pack in her ideal suitcase. Iconic teen-spirit thrift staples were transformed into a covetable wardrobe with jeans and playsuits that looked like they’d been dip-dyed in bleach, scribble-printed, or stamped with a python pattern. There was more surface detailing to look at in the collection than usual, with leather and denim patchwork in 70s shades of dusky pinks and reds, as well as pretty speckled pants bristling with color to provide tactile details.
Sara Vidas founded her fashion studio in 2010 and showed for the first time in Paris last season. She works as a stylist for various international brands and photographers andpreviously worked for Peter Jensen in London and Loyd Maish in Florence. She won the Swiss Federal Design Award and the Apolda European Design Award with her diploma collection and her S/S 12 collection continued to show great promise. A playful and colorful line-up of 80s leisure and activewear dominated the range, with bold and graphic placement prints and easy jersey separates accompanying loose denim silhouettes. Upsized tapered lounge pants and full shorts and skirts were executed in bright, mid-cast denims with sporty drawstring waists. The color palette was predominantly retro pastels with a high summer 80s feel, a perfect backdrop for bold and saturated indigos.
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