Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: For her second collection for Paco Rabanne, designer Lydia Maurer reprised house signatures and 60s silhouettes, but sharp tailoring and a controlled color palette made the looks feel of-the-moment. Rabanne’s classic chainmail was a necessary element, and Maurer used it well. The best iterations were slim little dresses with shirt collars. They looked youthful yet glamorous. Trim pantsuits featured boxy jackets and double-breasted closures, which suggested Mod inspirations, but their sober navy and black tones made them appear more sophisticated. Maurer played with texture by including disparate materials, such as soft fur and slick leather, in addition to the tough chainmail. The sole pattern in the offering was the grid, an appropriately structural motif, which harmonized with the label’s futuristic aesthetic. Maurer seemed far more confident in this second outing, and her concise, disciplined, and ultimately salable collection suggested that she should have a bright future at Rabanne. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Shrunken / Hourglass / Trumpet / A-line
Color: Silver / Navy / Black / Optic white / Light heather grey
Key Items: Chainmail dresses with shirt collars / Mod pantsuits / Dropped flounce skirts
Materials: Chainmail / Matte wool suitings / Suitings with a sheen / Soft fur / Slick leather / Patent leather / Cotton shirtings / Fine-gauge yarns / Thick felted wool / Lace
Print + Pattern: Grids
Details + Trim: Chainmail appliqués / Fine accordion pleats / Shirt collars / Double-breasted closures / Turtlenecks / Self-belts / Large silver buttons / Fabric appliqués / Spaghetti straps / Lace panels
Accessories + Footwear: High-heeled T-straps (with and without cap toes) / Ankle boots (with and without cap toes)
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