May 30, 2019 | By Louise Squire
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Feb 12, 2018
By Brian Trunzo
With an exodus of designers leaving for the European circuit – or finding new ways to present their collections altogether – the NYFW: Men’s schedule was noticeably light this season.
The dearth of established talent, however, allowed for emerging talent to seize the spotlight as up-and-comers enjoyed more visibility and less jockeying for attention.
Subscribers can head to our New York Fashion Week AW 18/19 First View report for more.
Emily Bode’s eponymous label’s sophomore showcase kicked off the week, and it did not disappoint. A more sensual and fluid interpretation of classic menswear, the Bode man is more romantic and thoughtful than his archetypal New York peers. Cut mostly from deadstock materials (very “1 of 1” status) in slightly oversized, even ‘nuanced’ fits, Bode’s elegant workwear-inspired garments draw heavily from the serenity of desolate east coast shore towns in the winter time.
The design duo’s exploration of performance tailoring for the modern man draws from the avant-garde and gothic, communicating a unique vision all their own. With Savile Row level precision, these are undoubtedly rigorously crafted garments. However, draped in flowing textiles that tout 21stcentury functionality- from hidden pockets to bonded seams – they look forward to the near future, balancing sci-fi influenced, dystopian aesthetics inspired by traditional, eastern, martial arts clothing.
Showing for his second season in New York, Raf has reached “living legend” status among menswear designers. Titled “Youth in Motion,” Raf’s seasonal effort heavily referred to drug culture among troubled teens (Raf was quick to note that the references were to raise awareness, not celebrate or condone). The affair was debaucherous and decadent with scattered wines, cheeses, charcuterie, chocolates and bouquets setting the stage (literally) for equally divine clothing. Sumptuous, intricately cut tailored outerwear was the focal point of the collection – seamlessly interwoven with tees and hoodies emblazoned with photo print and drug references (LSD, XTC and simply, “Drugs” in some instances), the collection was as timely as it will certainly be remembered as timeless.
This season, WGSN subscribers can head to WGSN Catwalks Live to catch every look moments after it comes down the runway.
For more catwalk analysis and industry insight from our editors, head to the Menswear section on WGSN.
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