Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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There is a moment when you realise that you are finally moving from being a girl to a woman, and as such you would like to dress accordingly. For me it was the moment I realised that I needed to stop buying cheap jewellery that was turning my ears green, and maybe, just maybe, I should spend a little more so that my ears would get a respite.
That has been the feeling emerging this New York Fashion Week: a return to classic, grown up pieces, but with flair of course because this is New York. And so, if you are making the transition in your closet from clothes that don’t last two washes to more wardrobe classics, may I suggest you take a peek at the A/W17 collections as a starting point for the new and improved (grown-up) you.
This season, it’s a little bit Phoebe Philo taking her bow at Celine, but also a bit street (because you don’t want to look too prim and proper).
Here are the designers that rocked the grown up look the best so far, called out by our Catwalks Director Lizzy Bowring.
Noon by Noor
The embodiment of femme modern – contrasting oversized masculine shapes with feminine draped silhouettes. Inspired by degrade, faded floral prints were captured in textural woven materials and singularly embellished. Material was dissected, crafted and reimagined to continue the pre-fall theme of fluidity with an emphasis on cut and the manipulation of fabric; a theme that has been percolating within collections over the last few seasons but never as serenely presented as this.
Beckham’s pieces alluded to a ‘certain sense of comfort in classic menswear tailoring’ with exaggerated wide cut trousers, oversized coats and blazers, all juxtaposed alongside feminine silhouettes. Beckham’s femininity came in the form of fluid dresses, some sinuous, cut in printed chiffon, and supple jersey, the prints of which were inspired by the Paul Nash exhibition at The Tate London.
This brand has always celebrated the female form and offered up seasonal classics, this season was a riff on the staples to push the boundaries: the sister design duo offered up bolder shapes, graphic textiles, and box pleating this time round.
This was yet another example of femme modern, a running theme this season.
As Creative Director Nicky Zimmerman put it “The resulting collection is frivolous and defiant; it’s opulent feminism mixed back with elements borrowed from the boys.”
And if that all seems a little too straight for you Alexander Wang gave full party girl, just in case you need to remind everyone that you are still a barrel of fun in your grown up silhouette. And the beauty looks courtesy of Diane Kendal at Nars, were an ode to the party girl, who had gone out the night before stayed at her friends, only to go out again that night- with Kohliner, and even blunt haircuts that happened backstage just before the show. Our kind of girl (at least on weekends, not on a weeknight darling!!).
“Wang offered up some very sharp, edgy silhouettes. Sartorial tailored jackets at their best were paired with skin tight leather pants that moved on into catsuits, shorts, chainmail tops and statement tee-shirts. Wang’s innate sense of cool streetwear, this was a show that served up some covetable pieces.”
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