No. 21

Milan: Designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua chose to combine a very feminine and youthful direction with menswear for Pre-Fall, a mixture which benefited both trends. Boxy, masculine cardigans became playful with subtle sequin sleeves, while girly pastel pink trousers gained gravitas paired with a serious camelhair overcoat. Other key elements included a series of bomber jackets done up with bloused sleeves and brocade, rounded cocoon cardigans, and straight skirts layered with delicate lace. What didn’t work for No.21 was a surfeit of pattern, from florals and checks to stripes and leopard prints, a confusing mélange which needed an edit. Instead, clean camel, black and pink were the collection’s winners by best demonstrating the label’s careful duality.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Relaxed / Hourglass / A-line / Fit and flare

Color: Princess pink / Camel / White / Olive / Black / Tan / Grey / Emerald / Gold / Navy / Nude / Ruby

Key Items: Double breasted overcoats / Pleated miniskirts / Silk blouses / Slim trousers / Pencil skirts / Bomber jackets / Oversized trousers / Logo t-shirts / Knit twinsets / Cropped fur jackets / Straight skirts with lace overlay

Materials: Cashmere / Silk / Intarsia knits / Fur / Stretch jersey / Cotton / Wool / Brocade / Lace / Leather / Satin

Print + Pattern: Florals  / Logo graphics / Checks / Animal prints / Stripes / Pineapple graphics

Details + Trim: Pleating / Ribbing / Gathering / Sequins / Folds / Bell sleeves / Patch pockets

Accessories + Footwear: Long leather gloves / Platform pumps / Spectator pumps / Bow embellished stilettos

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