Nina Ricci


Paris: For his second outing at Nina Ricci, Peter Copping seems to have become more familiar and comfortable with the house’s archives. The ultra-femme looks felt classic and Parisian, yet subtle adjustments to details and silhouettes brought it all up to date. Tightly packed floral appliqués decorated sheer tops and formed dimensional panels on dresses, and bits of fur clung to a slouchy silver sweater. Though the flowers and fur might have seemed frothy on their own, tailored pieces like shrunken blazers helped to ground the looks and gave them a bit of an edge. Slashed tiered skirts in liquid satin allowed for a peek at the thigh, a cheeky counterbalance to the sweetness, and a blazing lipstick red broke up the palette of pales, mauve, silver and black, showing that Copping’s girl has a seductive side. This sense of allure was solidified with a skirt suit in an exaggerated hourglass shape. Although some may pine for former Nina Ricci designer Olivier Theyskens’ moodier brand of femininity, Copping’s style is a perfect fit for the house, and he has done well to celebrate its heritage while making it feel right for women today.

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