May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Philip Glass’s “Two Movements for Pianos,” played by sisters Katia and Marielle Labèque, provided the background music for Peter Copping’s emotional Nina Ricci show. His designs are always intensely feminine and rich, but this season those qualities seemed amplified. A saturated red tone provided a romantic element, appearing for the lipstick, some of the prim Mary Janes, and also for numerous garments. Even the runway was the same heart-breaking tone. As in previous collections, tailoring was a key element here. But in addition to the more grown-up skirt suits, Copping also sent out flirty skater skirts, which gave it all a youthful feel. For evening, the designer amped up the embellishments, decorating items with fur trim, feathers, ruching, accordion-pleated ruffles, and lace appliqués. Though the embellishments were plentiful, items never felt cluttered or overdone. Exposed bra straps, bustier details, tap pants, and bodysuit infused the offering with the allure of deshabille. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Hourglass / Midi / Asymmetrical / Full-skirted / Tent
Color: Black / Ivory / Lipstick red / Blush / Beige / Midnight blue / Dove grey / Pale blue / Oatmeal / Mint
Key Items: Ruched pencil skirts / Tailored skirt suits / Full skater skirts / Gathered dresses / Prim sweaters
Materials: Fine-gauge cashmere yarns / Chiffon / Taffeta / Matte wool suitings / Lustrous charmeuse / Fluid silks / Cloqué / Textural felted wool / Tweed / Nylon
Print + Pattern: Soft plaid
Details + Trim: Gathering /Ruching / Accordion-pleated ruffles / Feathers / Iridescent fringe / Self-fabric flowers / Tied necklines / Collaging / Bustier details / Exposed bra straps / Lace panels / Fur trim
Accessories + Footwear: Thick headbands / Long baggy gloves / Envelope clutches / Multi-strap overnight bags / Minaudieres / Embellished evening bags / Skinny belts / Ankle-strap pumps / Mary Janes / Pointy-toe pumps
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