May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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THE ELEGANT & THE DISHEVELED
Paris: Last Fall Peter Copping brought a disheveled game of dress up to Nina Ricci, using provocative flashes of transparency to spice up his ladylike ensembles. For S/S 13 Copping’s seduction was much more literal, communicated via aggressive harnesses layered beneath nipped waist jackets or transparent flasher raincoats atop fishnet bodysuits. While some of these pieces will be best left to the theater of the runway, deconstructed chiffon dresses and sleek fringed skirts revealing a hint of thigh offered an alluring sense of movement. Copping’s slicing and tying techniques didn’t work as well for checked gabardine suiting, but his fluid cocktail frocks were the true standout for Spring and a category in which the Nina Ricci label always excels.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim & draped / Hourglass / Long & lean
Color: Black / Vibrant crimson / Hot pink / Navy / Lavender / Pale lemon / Turquoise / Silver / Metallic champagne / Peachy nude / Dove grey / Blush pink
Key Items: Crochet peasant tops / Deconstructed cocktail dresses / Satin pencil skirts / Metallic skirt suits / Fringed gowns / Nipped waist blazers
Materials: Mesh / Silk / Crochet / Vinyl / Tulle / Netting / Satin / Woven lurex / Stretch gabardine / Duchesse satin / Lace
Print + Pattern: Dots / Checks
Details + Trim: Leather piping / Fringe / Ruffles / Zippers / Harnesses / Balloon sleeves / Pleating / Self belts / Paillettes / Sequins
Accessories + Footwear: Fishnets / Draped chain necklaces / Slim clutches / Vinyl bow belts / Fringed scarves / Transparent pumps / Chain handbags / Futuristic oval sunglasses / Strappy sandals
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