May 01, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Nicola Formichetti has been the Artistic Director for Diesel for exactly a year, but as many of us will know, it takes a couple of seasons for someone to make a real change at a fashion label. So last week’s F/W 14 show, held in Venice, Italy, was Formichetti’s first full collection with the Italian denim brand, and a product of his close working relationship with Diesel’s founder, Renzo Rosso.
The show took place in a huge warehouse-sized space in Venice and included many of the offbeat models that Formichetti has been championing over the last few seasons, including Brooke Candy, who presented her latest single Opulence before the show finale. Another long-time collaborator of Formichetti, photographer Nick Knight created a short film that was played between the three sections of the runway event, featuring professional dancers including the choreographer and former Royal Ballet principal, Ivan Putroy.
“A big part of Diesel is about collaboration and creativity; it is one of the things I like most about it. And as Renzo says, ‘Diesel’s not about fashion, it’s about creativity,’” explains Nicola Formichetti. “For me Brooke Candy is one of the most interesting things happening in pop music and pop culture at the moment, she is part of a completely new generation that we want to support. And for me, Nick Knight is always taking risks, always pushing boundaries, always being relevant. He is the alternative spirit of Diesel personified.” Says Formichetti.
The show revolved around three timeless “Diesel Icons”: Leather, Denim and Military-Utility – all three elements that have created the foundations of the Diesel attitude over the last 30 years.
“This collection is a foundational collection. We are re-looking at our iconic pieces and the themes and spirit of Diesel; looking at what we essentially are and what we stand for, and then looking at where we are going to…” Says Formichetti.
Capturing the youthful spirit of the brand and its distinct take of “Italiano-Americana”, as well as a nod to late `90s London nightlife, the pieces included “Crust Pant”-inspired black denim, heavily laundered indigos, meticulous repeat destruction and beautifully detailed, magpie embellishments.
“This is a very special moment in the history of Diesel; 35 years of an alternative spirit, many successes and a lot of fun. Today I am enjoying the opportunity to marry the company’s heritage, my personal know-how and Nicola’s vision to create the future of the brand. With this collection and event we are setting the new starting point of where we are heading to.” – Renzo Rosso, Founder of Diesel.
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