Jun 07, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
Get more Denim insights as a WGSN subscriber
New York opened the Spring/Summer 2014 fashion week schedule with a denim packed selection of runway collections. Stylesight’s denim editors select the key designers who pushed indigo forward this season.
The fashion veteran really impressed this season, presenting a boho-indigo array of prints, textures and items. Artisinal techniques such as batik, block print, indigo dye and textures such as laser cutting and lacing created an overall feeling of rich, gip-set style. Prairie-ready silhouettes such as floor-skimming skirts and poncho-inspired shawls gave the collection a desert-plain appeal that sits bang in-line with our latest Denim Outlook, Eclectic Eccentric trend.
A designer who always explores a little denim in her range, Jen Kao went pretty indigo for S/S 14. As a follow-on from her Cruise 2014 collection, the designer explored simplified utility but this time in a deep, retro mid-cast raw. Deconstructed basics such as truckers, skirts, shorts and jeans were enlivened using raw and sliced edges and frayed finishes. Silhouettes came upsized to create a lounge-like feel and the folded-over denim pant stood out as a key directional piece.
Another strong indigo collection, cementing indigo-on-indigo pattern as a key direction for the coming season. Timo Weiland mixed rigid, clean basics in indigo and stark white with a strong artisanal indigo-print injection. Japanese-inspired Shibori looks (a Japanese dying technique using binding, folding and twisting to create batik-like effects) updated clean and retro women’s separates, and digital indigo floral prints gave the basic trucker runway presence.
An icy white palette set the tone for Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad’s collection this Spring. Denim and leather remain the foundation for the label but Melbostad explored a new range of slouchy pant fits to sit alongside the brands signature skinny fits. The neutral palette provided the perfect canvas for the designer to explore a range of prints, surface textures and embellishment. Picking up where fall left off, he put grommets on the hems of mini skirts, while mirror discs added a touch of glamour to slick skinnies. Strategic fraying breathed subtle touches of color into boyfriend shapes with hints of grey wefts appearing through shredded accents or rolled cuffs. Meanwhile, digital jewel like prints created an optical illusion of 3-D texture.
Creatures of Comfort designer Jade Lai translated her vision of an idyllic island paradise through her collection that explored a rich indigo spectrum. The dip dyed indigo curtains provided the perfect backdrop for the monochrome looks that passed through the Maritime Hotel with easy and breezy chambray separates channeling a cool summer feel. The neutral palette tapped into the trend for natural indigos with green cast tones skipping between bright cast and vibrant azure with simple polka dots and needle punch destruction injecting subtle surface interest.
NY Fashion Week newcomers Veronica Beard looked back to the flash and decadence of New York in the ’80s delivering a lively collection filled with neon accents and beautiful indigo textures. The sisters-in-law went all out with with surface texture this season with distressed denim-effect photo printed leathers to create an optical illusion of texture and shine. They stamped these prints on matching trucker and skirt sets, jumpsuits and popover tops creating slick and sharp sculpted silhouettes. The Beards injected classic denim shapes with concept cuts, trapunto stitching and reconsidered closures that reinforced the brands youthful direction.
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.