Sep 24, 2018 | By Lourdes Linares
Get more Denim insights as a WGSN subscriber
Stylesight’s denim team continues its highlights from New York Fashion Week, showcasing the best indigo looks to emerge from the runway.
For S/S 14, Alexander Wang looked to `90s nostalgia for inspiration – a time when he felt “fashion was really fun, when there was wit, humor, and it wasn’t so serious.” An era steeped in streetwear, Wang looked to the new wave of urban-inspired fashions born of the streets and the rise of denim in the mainstream. Concept cut utility styles and oversized sports jackets nod to the tomboy attitude of RnB icons like Aaliyah who famously re-appropriated these workwear and active styles. Chore coats were reworked in saturated darks with contrasting stark white topstitching. Meanwhile, slouchy pant fits were given the asymmetric fold treatment that reflects the unorthodox styling of the era. An impressive collection for a designer who is not yet 30 and heading up not only his own company, but also Balenciaga.
Another show that explored raw and frayed edges, following on from our post yesterday on Jen Kao. Comey also used rich, saturated denims in clean, structured silhouettes: no-nonsense items with minimal detailing and loose, upsized volume. The denim culotte was a key item as were the stark white pieces and the statement printed trucker. The overall look was modern, wearable and effortless denim.
The S/S 14 runway show marked a milestone era for DKNY. This season officially marked the 25th anniversary of Donna Karen and what better way to celebrate than to revisit some of the brand’s greatest denim hits – baggy denim overalls, slouchy pant fits and classic trucker jackets – timeless items you still see among the fashion crowd in New York and the world over today. Moments of newness were injected through cool multi-patch looks, piny/coverall hybrids and swinging menswear jacket shapes. The designer set the tone with a classic stonewash indigo palettes, occasionally injecting sleek and polished raw indigo tones to provide a touch of modernity to their legacy.
Hache cited `50s rockabilly and `70s punk as the driving force behind its S/S 14 collection. Denim pieces reflected the `50s hourglass look well, with circle swing skirts, cropped chambray tops and buttoned-down, preppy mid-century styling. The runway was a sea of multi-toned indigos ranging from deepest rigid indigo to baby sky-blue and highlighted with the color of the season, white.
A brand with a novel, unique and pretty streetwear-driven aesthetic, it was no surprise to us that McNairy’s S/S 14 show contained quite a bit to inspire the denim designer or enthusiast. Rigid denims in deep indigo formed the backbone of the collection’s more commercial looks, with sporty baseball vests, short sets and upsized pants and shorts setting the scene. McNairy used a genius mix of “real men” to walk his show, from Greg Chapman to Nick Wooster and Pusha-T. The later of which, really cementing this collection as Hip Hop-inspired. Beautifully rendered laundries to replicate camo sat alongside a sea of printed camos, creating a perfect partner to the denim.
While not a denim heavy collection, Phillip Lim is always one New York designer you can rely on for inspiration. This season’s collection was inspired by geology – Earth and its elements. This translated into beautiful surface treatments and prints that referenced swirling mineral formations and geode-inspired patterns. Intricate tie-dye denims in dark earthy palettes gave the trend new direction while pearlized leathers were scraped back and abraded to leave a metal-mottled barely-there shine.
We loved this season’s Tommy Hilfiger runway; inspired by Californian beach culture, the team mixed beautiful, glossy indigo denims with pops of sportswear-inspired styling. It’s very obvious to see the surf culture references, through the neoprene fabrics and bold fabric blocking and seam details. There’s also a retro sportswear vibe injected through spread-collar shirts, team vests and preppy shorts.
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.