Oct 04, 2017 | By Lourdes Linares
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In our second installment from New York, we pull out the key denim-heavy runway shows for ultimate denim inspiration.
Richard Chai’s S/S 13 collection, entitled “Light,” was clean and sporty, with nearly every piece, from fit-and-flare dresses to color-blocked nylon coats, soaked in activewear influence. The raw denim A-line miniskirt was the most prominent key item for women, often paired with halter bralettes or fitted neoprene T-shirts. The statement denim piece was a slim-line glossy denim parker, while simpler utility pocket jeans and smartened chore coats gave the menswear a modern slant. The overall effect was cool, simple and elegant denim for S/S 13.
Diesel visited the 90s with their urban skate collection for S/S 13. In an interview with Dazed Digital, designer Sophia Kokosolaki spoke about her time at St Martins in 1996- 1997 and the work of Melanie Ward and the late Corrine Day as a key driving forces behind the collection, modernized with new technical fabrics and a sporty, N.Y. attitude. The statement print jeans were inspired by graffiti in a skate park on the Thames and the show opened with a skate ramp and skateboarders to the sound of Minor Threat. This is sadly Kokosolaki’s last collection for Diesel Black Gold; she will be a talent sorely missed!
The waning work of Chinese lumberjacks in the Heilongjiang Province inspired Bumsuk Choi’s S/S 13 collection, a novel update to the outdoors trend we’ve been tracking over the last few seasons. The color palette was bright and playful with fluorescent green camouflage, dijon yellow canvas and rich forest green teaming with the clean and bright indigo cast denims and chambrays. The collection also celebrated a touch of 90s utility and models were styled with long, lank hair and beanies and plenty of layering. It was a refreshing and novel look to update the Lumberjack.
Jen Kao’s “Haiku” collection was inspired by the simplicity of this short form of Japanese poetry and by the juxtaposition of two images or ideas. The Eastern influences were very apparent on her runway with conceptual folded garments and the use of clean, baby-pale indigo, which added to the clarity of the collection. The show also had a sporty elegance, styled with baseball caps and using activewear-driven dolphin hemlines and modernized tee-shirt blocks.
Assembly New York named their S/S 13 show “White Africa” and explored the concept of native cultures melding with modern civilization. This collection also used the clean and clear baby-pale casts as seen at Jen Kao, this time utilizing soft draped lightweights and asymmetric pattern cutting to create an elegant and romantic denim attitude. With a focus on volume, traditional basic denim pieces were re-worked into conceptual versions, such as the short-sleeved denim shirt and the shirtdress.
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