It was only a matter of time before the US created a platform to showcase its men’s fashion design talent. WSGN Denim Editor Samuel Trotman shares 10 looks that truly made an impact
It was New York’s very first men’s fashion week and saw established American fashion giants like Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein present alongside upcoming labels like Timo Weiland and Gypsy Sport. And these 10 denim looks are the most interesting to come out of the event…
1. N. Hoolywood
Daisuke Obana delivered deceptively simple indigo layering for Summer 2016, combining a complimentary mix of denim weights, washes and textures. Classics – like the trucker jacket – came upsized with concealed hardware, while denim tees and joggers lent an urban edge.
2. Thaddeus O’Neil
A retro tropical theme was explored for the S/S 16 collection with the designer updating 1950s vacation staples like the spread collar shirt and chino in rich and glossy denims or crisp chambrays in vibrant indigo hues.
3. Richard Chai
A New York Fashion Week regular, Richard Chai has always had a penchant for denim design and S/S 16 was no different. The designer dipped into rugged twill once again with a selection of unbleached ecru denims while looking to sharp, tailored silhouettes highlighted with contrast single needle stitching that nodded to Prada’s 1970s geek chic looks of last summer.
4. Todd Snyder
NYC designer Todd Snyder offered up his take on sheer classicism, with a vacation-ready collection inspired by the Amalfi Coast and the landscapes of Capri. A 1950s retro theme was felt throughout, with loose-fitting linen suits, chambray bombers, indigo terrycloth polos and tropical-print safari-style jackets in a palette of rich and glossy indigos and sky-blue chambrays.
5. Timo Weiland
The trio behind American label Timo Weiland continue to create a stir among the New York design collective with their on-point take on contemporary menswear. The label perfectly executed its refined interpretation of youthful summer in the city for S/S 16 with a collection of classic and slim-fit smart separates.
6. Greg Lauren
Debuting his first ever menswear catwalk show, Greg Lauren showcased his S/S 16 collection under the preface of a Noah’s Ark of male archetypes. Everyone from fishermen to blue-collar workers, cowboys and artisans were present – each one dishevelled and distressed to the Greg Lauren standard.
For S/S 16, designer Carlos Garciavelez explored the indigo colour spectrum through the distortion of light. A contemporary palette of vivid and glossy tones were showcased through a range of tones and textures across athletic-inspired silhouettes.
8. Maiden Noir
Seattle and Tokyo-based menswear label Maiden Noir presented its S/S 16 collection as part of the independent fashion trade show, Capsule. Taking inspiration from the atmospheric landscape photos of Amanda Ringstad, the label presented a contemporary collection of urban and sportswear pieces like bomber jackets, jogging pants and jeans in white-coated denims and cobalt blue cords.
9. Gypsy Sport
After a slew of guerilla-style presentations throughout New York women’s fashion week schedule, designer Rio Uribe has become one of the city’s most closely watched designers. S/S 16 saw the harlem designer take his pan-ethnic, pan-gender stylings to the next level with a collection of unconventional pieces that mix sportswear with non-Western influences.
10. Siki Im
Korean label Siki Im presented a youthful and seasonal collection for S/S 16. Taking on the Eastern artisan looks seen across the European menswear shows, the label mixed up urban denim assortments with traditional Eastern styling, with jeans swinging loose off the waist and swathes of denim worn as a shawl.
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