May 14, 2018 | By Sidney Morgan-Petro
FABRIC & MATERIALS
L to R: Rag & Bone, Patrik Ervell, Calvin Klein Collection, Michael Kors
Some of the words used to describe the fabrics found on New York’s F/W 09 runways included “sophisticated,” “luxurious,” “innovative,” and “elevated.” Coinciding with many designers’ interest in fusing fabrics and tonal colors together, there were a lot of leather-trimmed shirts, pants and outerwear. The lustrous shine of the rich black, brown, green and blush leathers seen in the collections contrast in a very modern way with complementary hues made out of poplin cotton, satin silk and wool/mohair. A contemporary re-telling of classic fabrics like heavy Shetland wool and tweed was abundant on the New York runways. Patrik Ervell was one of many designers who had elevated, modern versions of a wool Fair Isle sweater, some with novel trims like pearls. Calvin Klein Collection used a liquid-like material on suits and outerwear, making for a very experimental, futuristic aesthetic. Finally, salt & pepper tweeds took a classic material to a whole other level, especially when used as a head-to-toe fabric for an interesting dimension not usually seen on suits. Also used on speckled sweaters, its use was a very polished attempt at looking worn-in and comfortable.
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