May 14, 2018 | By Sidney Morgan-Petro
L to R: Yigal Azrouël, Rag & Bone, Robert Geller, 3.1 Phillip Lim
F/W 09 has been quite a season for evolutions in men’s shapes and silhouettes. While the New York collections have never been known for pushing the envelope but so much, this season gave us a refreshing, more understated way of translating the many ideas and concepts seen in Europe. The cocooning effect was a major force on the New York runways, from heavy-gauge scarves used as a new layer to cape-like wrap around knits styled on top of coats and tailored jackets. The slim, lean silhouette is still around, but some designers had more interesting ways to elevate it beyond skinny jeans and oxford shirts. Many of the models came out with elongated knits worn under more cropped jackets, immediately giving us a multi-layer view of the season. The themes of an urban nomad and a kind of “soft security” continued in the form of voluminous knits and coats worn in tonal variations of color. Many of the shapes were bonded together with use of a belt or strap, adding to the “hard meets soft” way of thinking. Extremely luxurious fabrics made this one of the best fusions of classic and fashion-forward. Finally, with tailored clothing still one of the best-performing classifications for retailers, a slim and cropped double-breasted jacket was one of the must-have items of the season. Either styled with equally slender trousers or a relaxed-fit pant for a high/low juxtaposition, the looked came across as dapper and modern.
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