May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
L to R: Victor Glemaud, Z Zegna, Calvin Klein Collection, Thom Browne
Four dominant accent colors emerged at the conclusion of New York’s F/W 09 Fashion Week. Unlike their European counterparts, many New York-based designers wanted to shy away from completely bleak, somber collections for the season. Yes, there were plenty of black, charcoal and navy looks on many of the runways, but they almost always tied back to notions of romanticism or futurism, not the world’s depressing state of affairs. Construction site orange came away as the most bold and optimistic hue of the week. Showing up as a pop color in a handful of collections, it seemed to coincide with the “caution: work ahead” state of mind as of late. It almost preps us for the tough road ahead, but serves as a trusting guide along the way. It showed up on active-influenced knits, outerwear and even a few cold weather accessories, and was almost always paired with dark grey and black. A very dark, chemical green continued to dominate many of the New York collections, showing up as a moody accent on primarily leather jackets and pants, as well as some luxe knits. The dark shade had a very laboratory-effect when done as a shiny, wet fabric. Take a look at Stylesight’s “Alchemy” trend for F/W 09 to see the suggested organic meets scientific aesthetic. A dark, inky blue has been one of the colors of choice for several seasons in the men’s market, continuing on to F/W 09. The shade has lightened up just a bit for the New York collections, still becoming an extremely sophisticated option when styled with black or grey. Finally, monochromatic use of all shades of grey looked modern and represented the “clean palette” so many designers were seeking. It worked well on the new multi-layered proportions of the season, giving an added refinement to the tonal designs.
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