Mar 23, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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New York kicked off the women’s Fall/Winter 2014 schedule earlier this month presenting a varied mix of denim assortments. Here, Stylesight showcases the best looks from all the shows across the city.
F/W 14 saw Phillip Lim move away from his usual tough streetwise sensibilities, and take a more gentle approach for this season. Denim jacket silhouettes with traditional stitch detailing were rendered in fuzzy furs and fleeces. Pastel patchwork, tropical floral prints and vibrant colorways nodded towards thoughts of sunnier climates, with Lim naming his muse “Soleil”.
Drawing on a range of rugged references, including mountaineering gear and western workwear, Tommy Hilfiger gave us a collection that held an All-American aesthetic at its core. Sheep-lined parkas and cutesy tartans were given a tough edge, when raw denim and utility jumpsuits wove their western magic into the collection. Patchwork on trucker jackets and boyfriend jeans showed a toughness that was in sharp contrast to the flippy mini shirts and blanket dresses.
Packaging appeared to be the main influence behind this collection from Margiela – even as much as bubble wrap tops being shown. Luxe gloss denim came in traditional shapes with straight leg jeans styled with an oversized turn up taking on a high end feel when crafted in blood orange and indigo coatings. Cropped jackets and longline shirts created interesting, contrasting silhouettes.
Softly does it at Rachel Comey for F/W 14 with the designer reaching once again to denim to construct her feminine forms. Even jet beads couldn’t take away from the sense of ease with clothing that Comey does so well. Loose, comfortable cuts in cozy textures were kept cool with awkward cropped lengths and gentle distressing at hems.
Metallics and leather gave a distinct glam rock feel to this offering from Diesel Black Gold. Clean, slick silhouettes came in gunmetal, space age silver, cream and black. Sheer black chiffon pieces offer a feminine contrast to all the biker detailing on display. A move away from the distressed denim Diesel does so well, this collection gave us a more sophisticated take on the street wear they are so well known for.
Citing fine artists such as Roy Liechtenstein and Andy Warhol as inspiration this season, Ostwald Helgason presented their most accomplished collection to date. Burnished coppers and golds were cooled down with sea foam green and metallic blues. Highlights were the iridescent, denim-esque pieces. In cool, slouchy silhouettes, this is denim at its most elegant.
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