Jan 17, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Every week we’re going to give you a snapshot of the strongest denim runways from each city. Today we focus on New York, where the denim vest continues to inspire and interpretations range from minimal to utility to maritime.
3.1 Phillip Lim
The 3.1 Phillip Lim collection was cool, clinical and effortless. Utilitarian detailing and stripped back function was the styling direction and apparently Lim’s inspiration was the humble kite, driving the feather-light layers and angular cutting. The star of the show for us was the denim parka-gilet in washed-out baby blue (above, third image).
Diesel Black Gold
Metallic finishes mixed with grungy silhouettes in this retro-futurist collection for Diesel by Sophia Kokosalaki. The designer took her starting point from the idea of reflection; the models strode out from behind a screen of huge mirror strips in reflected and refracted metallic jeans. Cracked coatings and sprayed shine gave the finishes a casual denim attitude, and flared silhouettes provided a retro feel to the collection.
Ombre techniques just keep on emerging in the denim world, and the color palette of bright synthetic indigos with stark whites gave the Edun collection a fresh summer edge. A casual, active-denim look sets the tone with drawstring waists and outdoors sporty vests updating simple denim pieces. The peg-leg silhouette is a key item in the range and variations on the vest shape also emerge.
The minimal look that has given denim a new attitude over the past couple of seasons is still going strong on many runways, the latest of which is Steven Alan. The collection focused on clean and unlaundered chambray and lightweight denim, with simple tees and halter-neck tops sitting alongside the classic T-shirt dress and wide palazzo pant. Again, the tight color palette of indigo and crisp white prevails for summer 12.
A breadth of military references drove the Tommy Hilfiger S/S 12 collection with indigo camos and nautical references playing key roles. Riviera chic met hard-edged fatigue references with the indigo camo biker as a centerpiece of the range. Nautical striped pants and shorts teamed with denim tailored blazers for a clean and chic attitude.
Theyskins always seems to capture the effortless cool of the NY girl with ease and his S/S 12 collection mixes slouchy and grunge inspired silhouettes with modernity and utility. A color palette of muted tones of indigo, black and grey mix with ice blue in dropped and slouchy exaggerated boyfriend jeans and shorts. We love the skinny utility coverall for its workwear-meets-sexy appeal.
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