Dec 06, 2018 | By Jane Boddy
Now that the Spring/Summer 2017 menswear collections have wrapped up in Europe, we finally have some down time to analyse more closely what designers are saying about the current state of menswear. Summer weather and clothes have been best-frenemies ever since we first correlated ample sunlight with heat, and despite the existence warm-handle fabrics like linen and cotton poplin that are suited for high temperatures, dressing for the season’s dog days remains a style quandary for men everywhere.
Thankfully, we have three cities’ worth of shows to look through (don’t worry New York, we’re coming for you later this month!), and after many heated arguments and cups of coffee, we’ve narrowed down five new style rules for men. From the colour of the moment to a smart upgrade to something most men probably own already, here are the key style takeaways, from the European catwalks:
1. Elevate your coaches jacket.
Where we saw it: Tiger of Sweden, London
The coaches jacket is a cross between a workwear chore coat and a comfortable satin baseball jacket. A staple in the streetwear and sports market, Tiger of Sweden does away with the usual logos and opts for a slim satin version, but keeps the silhouette’s trademark snap-button closures and open bottom, smartening it up. They style it over a crisp cotton suit, but it could just as easily make a white tee and light-washed pair of denim look a little less casual.
2. Rethink pink.
Where we saw it: Agi & Sam, London
Washed pastels have become prominent statement colours for everything from jersey sweats to denim jackets, with a dusty pink hue popping up everywhere from music festivals like SXSW to the stylish streets of SoHo (both New York and London). Agi & Sam uses it on a military-inspired cropped jacket, tempered by a long-sleeve knit and voluminous trousers, letting the subtly sharp hue do all the talking in this look.
3. Stick your neck out under suiting.
Where we saw it: Gucci, Milan
Sportcoats and proper trousers gain a more casual attitude when paired with a T-shirt underneath, but at Alessandro Michele-era Gucci, he opts for a louche mock neck in a bold pink hue with a mocha brown cotton sportcoat and washed teal trousers with cropped hems. It’s a bit ’70s in the best way possible, perfectly toeing the line between dressed-up and laid-back. A navy or black turtleneck in a soft cotton jersey will do just fine—and you won’t even look like Steve Jobs.
4. Florals? For camouflage? Groundbreaking.
Where we saw it: Dries Van Noten, Paris
Master of pattern Dries Van Noten melds the worlds of florals and camos with this beautifully eye-catching parka, another silhouette we’ve seen plenty of this season (so consider this particular tip a two-fer). Dark olive tones mesh well with leaf and palm prints, taking some of the street edge away from typical camos and veering into a more luxurious, relaxed resort attitude.
5. Take your lightweight jackets East, young man.
Where we saw it: White Mountaineering, Paris
The side-tie noragi jacket is a Japanese workwear staple that’s sort of a cross between a cardigan and a blazer. Meant to be worn relatively loose, White Mountaineering uses a versatile washed denim material that goes with anything, and adds an ethnic-inspired trim for just enough of a statement. They’re easier to wear than they look, and pair especially well with solid crewneck t-shirts and darker-coloured chinos. Just think of it as you would a denim jacket: Throw it on as a light layer, forget about it, and get on with your life.
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