Dec 06, 2018 | By Jane Boddy
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Jul 05, 2016
By WGSN Insider
080 Barcelona Fashion Week S/S 17 has just rounded up for another year but the emerging talent is definitely worth keeping your eye on. After a busy week of shows, exhibitions and the coveted 080 Barcelona fashion week competition award (complete with a 15,000 euro’s prize donated buy Spanish high-street giant Desigual) WGSN’s womenswear editor Robbie Sinclair gives us his top fashion designers to watch out for.
Winner: Blame Label
Pablo Puig Gomar’s winning menswear collection boasted sporty and tailored hybrids that had undertones of neo goth and refined loungewear, presented in a palette of black and tones of grey, bottle green and sea foam lifted a predominantly dark palette.
Outsized layering played a key part with layered long line tee’s and lazy shirts sitting over cropped trousers along with rib stitch knitted onesies. Crushed patch pockets slotted through secondary layers giving a multi-functioning feel. Accessories were also very impressive with holdall bags that doubled up as rubber strapped backpacks, backwards peak-less caps, branded strapped keychain necklaces, transfer tattoo’s and a modern take on cyber punk eye wear. In my eyes, the collection stood out as soon as I walked into the dressing room backstage, the attention to detail was amazing and I knew exactly what Puig Gomar’s brand was about and where he wanted to go. His passion and execution spoke volumes.
Speaking with Pau backstage as his models got dressed he described his collection as being inspired by the Berlin club scene and I could instantly recognise his references. Sweat (as in perspiration), was his main inspiration and as we took our seats and the lights went down to a red cast runway I was instantly taken to the main dance floor of Berlin’s Berghain as the heavy thud of the sound system filled the room.
Then one by one actors in clubwear (mainly in black of course) walked the opposite way down the catwalk and as the music faded and the first model walked out into the light, we were shocked to hear a sad, melancholic soundtrack.
Shiny faced, perspiring models rocking beautifully crafted SWEAT embroidered sweatshirts and curved hem trousers walked to the beautiful notes of Ólafur Arnalds’ 1953. It seemed the party was over and the comedown from the fun was taking hold. Layered solid and sheer shorts were a stand out and served as part underwear part outerwear. In my opinion, the collection was beautifully emotional and really took us on a journey, the soft tailoring was beautiful and I loved the mix of menswear and womenswear, I can’t wait to see it in stores.
Backstage before Alarcon’s show he talked us through his concept and we instantly fell in love with his passion and personal experiences that inspired his collection. His ideas on gender (or no gender as the case maybe) gave a beautiful insight to his idea of the future of fashion.
“My collection looks at plants and hybrid gender flowers for inspiration. There are similarities also to human life as gender doesn’t really play a role in my collection and I see a future where gender divided fashion is less important” said Alarcon.
He spoke of how he has parts of both his father and grandfather but he is his own person and how he is influenced by them but of his on ideals also. His collection was both romantic and modern with nods to 1960’s and 70’s minimal silhouettes in soft pink and yellow tones. The knitwear heavy collection consisted of many clean, easy-wear shapes but it was the high waisted ruffle trousers and floral sweaters that really stole the show! Plastic silhouettes with hand painted stylised floral designs were appliqued directly on to knitted tops. A beautiful collection with tons of potential and a strong message for the future of gender issues in fashion.
Clad in matching pink and shite seersucker dresses, design duo Elisabet Carlota & Elisendra Oms passionately told the jury how their home sat at the heart of the collection. Their main inspiration came from a Catalan poem and every piece was produced in Cataluña.
“A lot of manufacturing used to happen in Cataluña which unfortunately has declined, we want to try and bring it back so every piece is designed and made here,” they explained.
The collection looks back at local traditions where tomato growing sits at the heart of the brands story. A palette of tomato red, soft pink, white, grey and black sat alongside clean denim that gave strong nods to workwear and farming influences.
Classic macramé details and straw sun hats added texture to easy-wear looks consisting of folded detail wide leg jeans and tomato embroidered sweatshirts. No gender also played a key part in the duo’s brand with the only difference between pieces was the starting patterns.
“We believe that fashion should have no gender and want our collections to allow freedom and gender fluidity, the pieces are the same for men and women with the only difference being the original pattern as each gender’s body shape is different,” said Elisabet Carlota.
We couldn’t agree more.
Like this? To stay in touch with Robbie’s fashion finds, check out his Instagram account
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