May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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MILAN… The fashion landscape here does not change that rapidly, year after year the super brands remain the same, Gucci, Dolce, Armani, Prada, Marni rule the roost. However, a few names have started to emerge in recent seasons, 6267 (Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi both of whom worked at MaxMara before) is one such name. The long and slender lengths seen in London from the likes of Marios Schwab were represented here too; the show started with a narrow black maxi coat and later also showed some longer length print dresses. There were some above-the-knee lengths shown also, notably on a checkered flirty dress that proves the flexible age range the brand appeals to. Back to the prints; the design duo were inspired by the early twentieth century Viennese art movement Wiener Werkstätte that included Klimt and Sciele. In a season where Klimt-esque jewel tones are key, the fact that the prints were rendered in a black and white palette only made them more outstanding.
Another name that receives increasing amounts of buzz every new season is Bottega Veneta, designed since 2001 by Thomas Maier,
“I wanted something effortless” he said before hand and in this there is no doubt he succeeded, showing head-to-toe one color total looks. Mostly they were plain and somber; even when there was heavy embellishment, (the first look out was a silk and wool coat with fabric strips in curlicues), there was still an air of elegant restraint. The line was long and lean with hemline at the knee and mostly rendered in this season’s ubiquitous grey tones. Of course the accessories were to die-for; matte crocodile bags, perfect pumps and booties and little cropped gloves to match.
What is a “maximalist” designer to do when the modern current takes a minimalist turn? the answer is to offer up the sort of collection Maurizio Percoraro did this time. While the overall look was certainly toned down compared to recent seasons, there was still plenty of rich embellishment to revel in. Starting with a plain, db overcoat of rather military bearing, Percoraro revved things up as the show moved along, playing with proportions on coats and adding fur trims, abstract blurred prints and sportswear pieces in gold Lamé. His true spirit was revealed toward the end with ‘stained glass’ print ombré prints for dresses and coats.
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