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N. Hoolywood

BIG PAPA
New York:
N. Hoolywood headman Daisuke Obana called his F/W 12 collection “The Kapitan” in honor of its inspiration—Earnest Hemingway. Though the show notes referenced both Hemingway’s time in the Red Cross and his long sojourn to Cuba, much of this gear in solid canvas, rich mouton, and sturdy wool appeared most suitable for hunting and fly fishing in cold, rugged Idaho, the state where the man they called “Papa” died. But, as one peered closer, hints of the Western Front and Cuba could be seen in shearling aviator jackets, berets, and tall leather boots or khaki shorts, canvas sneakers, and penny loafers. The details came plentiful and rich in this collection, where Obana lined pockets with leather and inserted oversized nautical o-rings into jackets, all resulting in an incredibly curated collection that included not only hints of Hemingway, but shots of many of the 20th Century’s best examples of functional field gear and sportswear.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Sportsman straight

Color: Khaki / Navy / Olive / Milk chocolate / Ivory / Sea grey / Safety orange / Foul weather yellow / Charcoal

Key Items: Yellow slickers / Field coats / Fishing vests / Rain parks / Down vests / Field pants / Khaki trenchcoats / Denim overalls

Materials: Twill / Mouton / Wool or cotton knits / Leather / Denim

Print + Pattern: Stripes / Windowpane checks / Field plaids

Details + Trim: Leather pocket closures / Structured cargo pockets / Large nautical eyelets

Accessories + Footwear: Rubber rain boots / Penny loafers / Tall leather boots / Jack Purcell’s / Berets / Knit hats and scarves / Silver bracelets and rings

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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