N. Hoolywood

New York: Saul Bass, a graphic designer and filmmaker famous for his “title backs” or “little sequences”—those opening film credits that list key cast and crew, as well as for creating the animated TV test pattern, inspired Daisuke Obana’s S/S collection. Bass worked from the 50s to the 90s, but his golden era was certainly the late 50s and early 60s when he did the title backs for Hitchcock classics Vertigo, North by Northwest, and Psycho, as well as other era classics like Ocean’s Eleven, Westside Story, and It’s a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World. Obana’s designs drew directly upon Bass’ graphic creations, as he showed Pop Art prints of test patterns, giant human eyes, abstract pixels, and an all over pattern that proclaimed “The End”, but also drew strength from the clothing of these films and their era. Obana presented Beatnik and collegiate slacker looks consisting of short-sleeve crew neck sweatshirts and chinos, accentuated by nerdy square frame glasses or cooler Wayfarer style shades. Rockabilly hood looks popped up in the form of two-button sharkskin shirts, a violet suede letter jacket, and two-tone belts worn with buckles to the side, while trim polos, windbreakers, and trim suits with skinny ties could have been worn by Carry Grant or Norman Bates alike. Other cinematic touches were more abstract, like the screen printed, stripe patches that adorned polos, a mackintosh, a cardigan, and t-shits that evoked nothing so much as gaffer tape. Models walked spotlighted against the backdrop of an actual film made for the presentation that included the remixed names of 60s actors and directors and vocal snippets of Saul Bass describing his craft.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Early 60s trim and tailored

Color: Violet / Lemon / Sunset orange / Athletic red / Cream / Heather gray / Khaki / Kelly green / Black / White

Key Items: Polo shirt / Short-sleeve crewneck sweatshirt / Suede varsity jacket / Letter sweater / Square hem plaid shirt / Chinos / Windbreaker / Mackintosh

Materials: Jersey / Suede / Chino / Sharkskin / Fleece / Nylon /

Print + Pattern: Abstract pixels / Pop Art “The End” all-over graphic print / Plaid / Screen printed patch stripes / Eye graphic / Horizontal stripes

Details + Trim: Four inch trouser hems / Gingham-lining chinos /

Accessories + Footwear: Two-tone leather belts worn with buckles to the side / Wayfarer-style sunglasses / Bucket hats / Test pattern scarf / Suede and leather 50s rocker shoes / Slim oxfords / Square frame eyeglasses / Skinny ties / Pendants

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