London: For a label that primarily sells handbags, Mulberry has expanded its reach considerably, capturing pop-culture credibility with it-girl collaborations and a wider editorial audience with bombastic runway shows. F/W 12 managed to focus on the clothes, a bold range of everything fur; shaggy coats, fitted vests, zipped hoods. Even shaved fur dresses and fluid goat pencil skirts made an appearance. But as per Mulberry’s youthful directive, such luxurious materials were treated in a casual way and the presentation soon expanded into everyday knits layered and belted at the waist, quilted leather bomber jackets topping calf length lace skirts and rolled hem bouclé shorts with printed sweatshirts. Occasionally the manic layering overtook the models, but even then monochrome color combinations and coordinated textures helped smooth things out.      —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Boxy / Relaxed / Fitted

Color: Chestnut / Mustard / Black / Cream / Lemon / Grey / Navy / Cobalt / Tangerine

Key Items: Shaggy fur coats / Hooded coats / Leather pencil skirts / Fur vests / Wide-leg trousers / Simple turtlenecks / Knit shorts / Printed anoraks / Wrapped cardigans / Blanket coats / Quilted sweatshirts / Satin cocktail dresses / Quilted leather bomber jackets

Materials: Fur / Wool / Silk / Shearling / Leather / Cashmere / Satin / Cotton / jersey / Lace / Space-dyed knits

Print + Pattern: Animal prints / Chevrons / Abstract splatters

Details + Trim: Hoods / Fringe / Sequins / Zippers / Quilting / Sweetheart necklines

Accessories + Footwear: Crocodile satchels / Lace-up ankle boots / Oversize knit scarves / Patterned handbags / Leather tote bags / Slim leather belts


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