May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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SHE’S A LADY
Paris: Nicola Formichetti may never fully shake his associations with Lady Gaga, but this season it seemed the designer shifted away from the theatrical, outlandish creations that he procured for her, as well as from the overtly sexy vibe he has conjured during his time at the helm of Mugler. Like many other designers this season, Formichetti made a statement with ladylike grey skirt suits, opening his show with four in a row. His versions of the skirt suit featured rounded, dropped shoulders and button-less, curving lapels that were a nod to the house’s futuristic foundations. With the prevalence of long sleeves and below-the-knee hemlines, it was the designer’s most covered-up collection yet. The more directional fare appeared toward the middle of the show. Furs with oblong cutouts and psychedelic-patterned neoprene partially covered with liquid satin were among his more challenging looks, but the focus was on the more conservative items, which are sure to be more successful at retail. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Ovular / Rounded shoulders / Midi / Asymmetrical / Hourglass
Color: Dove grey / Concrete / Slate / Pale grey / Tangerine / Optic white / Midnight blue / Mint / Mauve / Pale orange / Bronze / Silver / Faded yellow
Key Items: Skirt suits / Lacquered leather skinny pants / Fur with cutout / Neoprene and satin dresses / Turtleneck sweaters
Materials: Bonded wool suitings / Bouclé / Plush fur / Lacquered leather / Fine-gauge yarns / Neoprene / Shearling / Mohair yarns
Print + Pattern: Psychedelic shapes
Details + Trim: Dropped shoulder seams / Curved lapels / Exaggerated collars / Funnel and turtlenecks / Oblong cutouts / Piecing / Hoods
Accessories + Footwear: Wimple-like hats / Thin frame bags / Flat booties / Pointy-toe T-straps / Pointy-toe loafers
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