May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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Paris: Nichola Formichetti looked back to the Thierry Mugler archives for Fall, and integrated inspiration from the far East. The creative director explained, “I had the idea of Asia in mind, the graphic stylization of the natural world in eastern art; the idea of a fusion of maximal and minimal aesthetics…a mixture of weird creatures coming out of the sea, going to the land and evolving to a more ferocious woman inspired by Japanese warriors.” The result was a collection of theatrically sculptural silhouettes, opening with a series of all-white looks that called to mind extra terrestrial yetis, and ending with veiled asymmetrical layers. Body-con took on new meaning with molded peplums and dramatically padded shoulders, and strategically placed fox fur and mink added lush volume. Mugler’s 1997 “Insect” collection served as a reference for the intricate exoskeleton motifs that were either printed or created by pieced croc, snakeskin and spandex. —Anna Jane Davis
Silhouette: Molded / Body-con / Padded Shoulders
Color: White / Black / Blood Orange / Tangerine
Key Items: Sheer blouse / Full, high waist pants / Padded shoulder, body-con dress / Structured, belted coat
Materials: Satin / ChiffonSpandex / Molded wools / Thread fringe /Patent leather / Snakeskin / Croc / Fox + mink fur
Print + Pattern: Insect-inspired exoskeleton motifs
Details + Trim: Skewed fur collars / Cutouts + slits / Padded shoulders / Peplums / Piecing
Accessories + Footwear: Platform pumps + ankle boots
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